We use Porc-Etch™ 1000 is a concentrated mixture of several acid bearing compounds that are designed to consistently break down the original glaze finish on bathtubs, sinks and tile walls.
Using Porc-Etch™ 1000 is an integral step in kitchen and bathtub refinishing process. Lab and field tests have proven that surfaces treated with an etching solution will hold the coating for longer than an untreated surface.
A major advantage of Porc-Etch™ 1000 over acid bearing solutions are its stabilizing base that allows a high level of controls over the etching
process. Destabilizing solutions such as straight hydrofluoric acid cut with water, will not give an overall uniform etch pattern, and will leave the surface uneven and pitted. Pinholes can trap acid in the substrate in some circumstances, which may lead to premature coating failure such as cratering, peeling, and bubbling.
The surface wash is a blend of solvent and cleaner that performs two important steps at one time. The cleaner removes silicone, water grease oil, etc. Surface wash washes away powder residue and leaves the pores of the porcelain or fiberglass surface clean for maximum adhesion of the applied coating. The solvent also removes any residual moisture left from the cleaning or etching of the surface, opening up the pores and leaving the surface free of contamination that can cause both short and long term coating problems.
We start sanding the bathtub down with 220 wet and dry sandpaper and finish with a 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper so we can assure a fine smooth tub for the primer and top coat to adhere to the tub. Then we inspect the tub for any pinholes, chips, rust spots and if the tub should have any of these problems we use a filler. Our choice,Pro-Fil™ is a reconstruction filler for porcelain and fiberglass repairs to fill in pinholes at the bottom of bathtubs and chips, and skim coat over rusted area of bathtub to prevent rust from bleeding through the finish.
We begin by masking off the the walls surrounding the bathtub, the floor, sink, toilet, towel rack and make sure we have an exhaust fan in the window and if there is no window in the bathroom will vent the bathroom using the closet window available to us by running a duct system to tunnel. The fumes are exhausted out that window.
Fresh scent masking additive allows the job site to be eliminated of unwanted odors, and is added to our primer and top coat glaze, leaving a pleasant scent.
We spray on Ultra-Grip 4000™ High Build Epoxy Coating. It is an excellent primer system for challenging substrates and its high build properties make it an ideal form filling primer. The high-density properties of this primer gives it sufficient corrosion protection, which is a a central part of any good bathtub refinishing process.
After waiting 30 minutes for the primer coat to dry we begin the process of top coating the bathtub. We first apply a thin mist coat to the tub. This is done to create a firm adhesion layer for the top coat. We wait about 5 minutes afterwards, and then we apply a nice even coat of glaze to the bathtub. After the second coat we wait about 10 minutes before we apply the third coat of glaze evenly around tub. Then we wait ten more minutes before we use the fourth and final coat of glaze to the bathtub. Many companies say they apply three top coats. The first coat should never be a regular thick layer. Always the first coat should be a quick thin mist coat to create a high adhesion for the rest of the glaze applied to bathtub. Then your bathtub is back to new and looking amazing.
We wait 20-30 minutes after final coat. Then we start removing the paper from the floor, vanities, the paper around the bathtub, surrounding the tub, and we clean up any mess. That is the completion of our bathtub refinishing process. All you have to do twenty-four hours later is to use your brand new refinished bathtub!